Black Box V5.1 Guia de Resolução de Problemas descarregar pdf (Página 32)

Euro MotoElectrics, 25958 Genesee Trail Road PMB 321 Golden, Colorado USA 80401 EDL-IGN Page 32 of 43

www.EuroMotoElectrics.com info@euromotoelectrics.com Tel: 1-303-526-0901

EnDuraSpark Electronic Ignition

Installation & Troubleshooting v5.1

Troubleshooting - No Spark

Engine doesn’t Turn Over

If the engine does not turn over at all, i.e. the starter motor does not engage, there is a

problem with the starting circuit or battery. If the instrument lights dim or go out when

the starter button is depressed the problem is usually a faulty battery, bad connections on

the cables attached to the battery, or bad connections at the starter relay.

If the instrument lights stay brightly lit when the starter button is depressed and you hear

the “click” of the starter relay, then the problem is usually the starter solenoid or a bad

connection on the fat red cable between the battery and the starter. If you don’t hear the

starter relay “click”, the problem is probably the starter relay itself, the kill switch, the

clutch switch, or the connections to these components.

Check Battery Condition

Modern motorcycle batteries are good for approximately 4 years. Every five years, they

should be replaced pro-actively because when they fail, they may do so without warning

(especially sealed batteries). Note that new batteries, from all manufacturers, may be

faulty.

A motorcycle battery cannot be accurately tested with just a voltmeter and certainly not

with the LED lights on a Battery Tender. Wet batteries can be tested with a hydrometer,

testing each of the six cells. The best test is with a pile load tester or similar tester. A

practical test is that the voltage across a battery when the starter motor is turning should

not drop below 11V.

Check Battery Grounds

If the battery is good there may be a bad electrical connection. We will check for broken,

loose, or corroded connections under load by checking for a voltage drop across various

wires. For these tests, we are NOT testing for 12V. We are expecting a voltage of a few

hundredths of a volt over a wire where the voltage drop should be near zero.

Place a voltmeter in the “low” DC range if it isn’t auto-scaling. Scrape the negative battery

terminal clean and firmly attach the voltmeter negative probe. Touch the positive probe

on a cylinder cooling fin. With ignition on, depress the starter. There should be 0 volts!

If more than a few hundredths of a volt, there is a bad ground wire connection. Remove

the heavy black ground wire at both ends (battery and transmission), clean up the

connectors and battery terminal with a wire brush. Replace using a thin smear of

dielectric grease. Be careful not to over tighten the bolt which holds the negative ground

cable to the transmission – it is hollow and easily snapped off.

Remove the tank. On the brackets that hold the coils, there are one or more brown wires

under the nuts on the bracket. Test the voltage between the ring terminals on the brown

wire(s) and the negative battery post, with ignition on and starter button depressed.

Again, it should be 0V. If more, there is a loose or corroded ground connection at the coil

bracket. Remove the wires, the bolts and bracket, clean up with a wire brush, and replace

using a slight smear of dielectric grease.

Going forward, it will be assumed that the engine has a good battery and the engine

turns over.

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